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Mine has also remained in that range, and after off roading and putting air back into the tires, I noticed the engine area was hotter from when I took out the air..... but no change....... so, I guessing it is what it is.........
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Mine has also remained in that range, and after off roading and putting air back into the tires, I noticed the engine area was hotter from when I took out the air..... but no change....... so, I guessing it is what it is.........
Thanks as a Element kid that seems hot. But I guess I have a more powerful little guy now.
Thanks!
 
I don't have a lot of miles or hill stress on mine yet, but my experience with J35 engines and Honda temp gauges are that they are non-linear in the mid-range. To really know what temps are, you need to monitor with an OBDII gauge. My gauge hovers just below mid point, and my ScanGauge shows 182-185 under most conditions.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
I don't have a lot of miles or hill stress on mine yet, but my experience with J35 engines and Honda temp gauges are that they are non-linear in the mid-range. To really know what temps are, you need to monitor with an OBDII gauge. My gauge hovers just below mid point, and my ScanGauge shows 182-185 under most conditions.
Could you tell me what would normal range be on Scan Gauge to understand readings. For example optimal bp is <120/90. Is there an optimal range for temp on Scan Gauge?
Thanks
 
182-185 is the normal range. At 182 the thermostat is fully open.
I wouldn't try to compare older vehicle temps with different fuel/emission systems to current Hondas.
If you are not aware, there are 2 temp sensors. The normal one by the thermostat, (which indirectly feeds the dash gauge) and one at the bottom of the radiator.
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
182-185 is the normal range. At 182 the thermostat is fully open.
I wouldn't try to compare older vehicle temps with different fuel/emission systems to current Hondas.
If you are not aware, there are 2 temp sensors. The normal one by the thermostat, (which indirectly feeds the dash gauge) and one at the bottom of the radiator.
Thanks for the info. Now I know why people invest in a scan gauge. What other vital info do like receiving from scan gauge?
 
The temperature gauge should remain at the same place unless the engine is generating more heat than the cooling system can handle which under normal driving situations (such as hill climbing), should not happen.
 
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Welcome to the world of "prevent over reactions by having the temp gauge stay in one place unless something is really actually wrong and overheated regardless of the actual specific temperature" mechanics.
 
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On the ScanGauge, I usually watch CT1 and CT2 (also known as ECT1 & ECT2), and select other things to get a feel of what I should see when everything is running normal. I would monitor trans temp if it was available. I like to compare reading to what I get on my '06 Pilot, which is running like a top.
LTFT - long term fuel trim, GPH - gallons per hr., MAP/BST - manifold air pressure or boost (turbo engine), all are very equal.
This shot shows CT1 @ 163 because I just installed the S-VCM (subject of another thread). It would normally be 182-185. CT2 always runs about ambiet temp until the thermostat opens, and then it begins to climb.
Image
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
On the ScanGauge, I usually watch CT1 and CT2 (also known as ECT1 & ECT2), and select other things to get a feel of what I should see when everything is running normal. I would monitor trans temp if it was available. I like to compare reading to what I get on my '06 Pilot, which is running like a top.
LTFT - long term fuel trim, GPH - gallons per hr., MAP/BST - manifold air pressure or boost (turbo engine), all are very equal.
This shot shows CT1 @ 163 because I just installed the S-VCM (subject of another thread). It would normally be 182-185. CT2 always runs about ambiet temp until the thermostat opens, and then it begins to climb.
View attachment 2649
Thanks For the information. I had no idea I could know all the vital signs of my little guy. Did the ScanGauge ever alert you to any problems in your pilot to prevent a flat line episode?
 
No flat lining w/Honda!
But I have witnessed a thermostat becoming erratic. Had I just had the dash gauge to rely on, I probably would have ignored it.
I got a lot of use out of the SG while I had the CR-V, documenting different problem symptoms.
 
No flat lining w/Honda!
But I have witnessed a thermostat becoming erratic. Had I just had the dash gauge to rely on, I probably would have ignored it.
I got a lot of use out of the SG while I had the CR-V, documenting different problem symptoms.
Interesting discussion using an SG to extract additional operating metrics. I have found that knowing the coolant temp is nice, but wouldn't be of more interest to know cylinder head temp or oil temp as a better gage of how the engine is performing?
 
I thought it was very strange there was no ATF sensor shown in the parts list. Turns out it's there - all internal. And can be seen with the HDS while doing the ATF Level Check. Now I will see if the ScanGauge people can figure out how to access it.

From the service manual - ATF Level Check;
6. Run the engine at idle speed until the ATF Temperature on
the HDS data list reaches between 99-113 °F
 
All,
I find this discussion of our PP's temp gage very interesting. My gage also indicates normal operating temp just below the midpoint. Am I correct to assume then, no matter how steep the hills, how hot the summer day, how fast I was driving and the gage stays always in the same location, the thermostat is compensating to keep the coolant at the mid-range temp? As you can tell I'm no automotive engineer, but am interested in how my PP works and how best to maintain and operate it. Thanks for any advice.
 
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