[madison38]

I was lucky enough to get one of the new skid plates from the fine folks at JSportUSA for my Touring model and I took some photos of the install process.

Cost: $395.00 USD including CA sales tax​

Install Time: 20 minutes.​

​

Tools Needed:​

• ratchet with assortment of metric sockets
• allen wrench
• curb to drive up on
• sheet of cardboard because I like these pants

​

The skid plate is a single piece of what I think to be 1/8" thick aluminum plate that has been powder coated black. It's well protected and looks great out of the packaging.

All of the hardware you'll need is included along with the requisite sticker.

To get enough room to install the plate, I drove up on the curb at the edge of my driveway. Certainly a jack and jack stands would be the advisable way to go, but this got it done.

Installation requires that you remove four small bolts at the rear of the front bumper fascia...

... and two larger bolts just behind the front suspension.

Lift the plate in place (it's light enough to support with one hand) and replace the factory hardware with the bolts provided.

That's it. You're done.

The plate does have a cutout for the oil drain plug.

I'm very happy with the fit and finish of the part and it does give me added confidence that I'm not going to empty the contents of my oil pan on a rock when out on the trail. I appreciate that it is extremely light weight and that there is very little loss of clearance with it installed.

 

[davidwilliams]

Well done! Thanks for the play by play. You need to put your curb on your Christmas card list. It has been a true friend to you.

 

[madison38]

Well done! Thanks for the play by play. You need to put your curb on your Christmas card list. It has been a true friend to you.

It's tiny, but mighty!

 

[margaret17]

Nice job mate / I’m playing around with mine this weekend and if I can’t come up with anything I’m going the jsport route ? (we will be at the cabin for 4 days so I should have plenty of time ?)/have you had any unusual towing noises I haven’t had any but have only towed about 800#?

 

[madison38]

Nothing to report. The second trailer I pulled had a load balancing hitch on it that creaked like it was an angry wookie, but nothing that I can attribute to the Passport. The first trailer was about 750# and the second was about double that. I really came to appreciate the paddle shifters on the long downhill into Anza Borrego.

Also, let me know if you install the mesh in the grille. It came to mind while I was driving an hour and a half on fire roads this past weekend.

 

[rebeccaramos]

What is the purpose of the large slotted hole on the front of the skid plate?

 

[madison38]

What is the purpose of the large slotted hole on the front of the skid plate?

As far as I can surmise, it allows airflow over the exhaust.

 

[margaret17]

Nothing to report. The second trailer I pulled had a load balancing hitch on it that creaked like it was an angry wookie, but nothing that I can attribute to the Passport. The first trailer was about 750# and the second was about double that. I really came to appreciate the paddle shifters on the long downhill into Anza Borrego.

Also, let me know if you install the mesh in the grille. It came to mind while I was driving an hour and a half on fire roads this past weekend.

Hey guy, just returned from up north and the PP towed 4100 lbs just fine and I had no problems or weird noises / I did spend some time looking to see if I can mesh up my ride for the fire road action and will have go the Jsports route as it’s pretty bad listening to all the loose stuff hitting my ride / probably just me being paranoid ?

 

[lance35]

Considering that the PP was configured for off-road activity, a skid plate would have been included as original equipment. My old CRV had them. Puzzling.

 

[madison38]

Hey guy, just returned from up north and the PP towed 4100 lbs just fine and I had no problems or weird noises / I did spend some time looking to see if I can mesh up my ride for the fire road action and will have go the Jsports route as it’s pretty bad listening to all the loose stuff hitting my ride / probably just me being paranoid ?

I still haven't beat up my skid plate as I've been pretty conservative so far, but it's nice knowing it's there when I hear it doing it's job.

@elder prep What CRV did you have? My 2006 didn't have skid plates unless you count the plastic cladding. These are 1/8" powder coated aluminum and are well beyond anything I've ever seen OEM in anything except maybe a Hummer.

 

[lance35]

I still haven't beat up my skid plate as I've been pretty conservative so far, but it's nice knowing it's there when I hear it doing it's job.

@elder prep What CRV did you have? My 2006 didn't have skid plates unless you count the plastic cladding. These are 1/8" powder coated aluminum and are well beyond anything I've ever seen OEM in anything except maybe a Hummer.

It was a 2005 CRV, however, I don't recall which trim level it was.

 

[rebeccaramos]

Received my skid plate order and proceeded with install, today. Unfortunately, the wrong set of hardware was included. In my case, front bolts (4X) were too short and rear bolts (2X) were the wrong thread pitch. At minimum, dry fit the bolts before proceeding. Otherwise, it should be an easy install and a sturdy skid plate.

Contacted JSport and they are sending out the correct set for the Passport.

 

[emoody]

Received my skid plate order and proceeded with install, today. Unfortunately, the wrong set of hardware was included. In my case, front bolts (4X) were too short and rear bolts (2X) were the wrong thread pitch. At minimum, dry fit the bolts before proceeding. Otherwise, it should be an easy install and a sturdy skid plate.

Contacted JSport and they are sending out the correct set for the Passport.

Wish I would have remembered reading this 5 months ago. Just fought with mine for an hour before giving up. Now wondering if mine came with the wrong hardware for the rear 2 as well. May have already screwed up the threads in the mounting locations too in the process as I couldn’t even get one of the factory bolts to go back in properly after I gave up. So frustrated.

 

[rebeccaramos]

Wish I would have remembered reading this 5 months ago. Just fought with mine for an hour before giving up. Now wondering if mine came with the wrong hardware for the rear 2 as well. May have already screwed up the threads in the mounting locations too in the process as I couldn’t even get one of the factory bolts to go back in properly after I gave up. So frustrated.

The thread holes will be fine. I was worried about the same. The females threads should be harder than the bolts. Either contact JSport to sent the correct hardware or buy 10mm x 1.25 pitch thread x 35mm flange bolt. You may have issues with one or two of the front slot holes with alignment. Enlarge the front holes, if necessary. I bought fender washers for the front and rear bolts (appropriate size for each). PM me for more questions.

 

[emoody]

Well, I was able to get mine installed with the 10x1.25 pitch thread bolts mentioned above picked up from my local hardware store. Not as pretty a picture as @DavidCSmithDP after sweating it out in the 95 degree driveway but it’s on, thanks to my impact driver, drill, the helpful tips in this thread and from @DudeCS

 

[rebeccaramos]

I had to do an oil change before my road trip. I performed the oil change with the skid plate installed to see how it goes. The skid plate hinders the oil change. Decide if you wish to leave the skid plate in place or remove it for the oil change. Some notes about the oil change...

• A socket and ratchet will not fit in the slot for the oil drain bolt. You will need to use a box wrench, 12-point 17mm (?) will work better because of the limit range of motion for turning.
• I had a sheet of tin and made a curved half cylinder to direct the large flow of oil once the bolt is removed. Captured most of the oil, but still had some oil go onto the topside of the skid plate. This flowed forward to the V-bend of the skid plate. Jack up the driver's side and the excess oil will drip out on the passenger's side.
• Reinstalling the oil drain bolt with new crush washer, I normally use a torque wrench. However, you will have to use the box wrench and torque to "goodentight".
  
  
• I have the Honda cap wrench for the oil filter. Normally, I use a 3/8" ratchet or a torque wrench with the cap wrench. There is insufficient clearance for a ratchet and had to use a 14mm open-end wrench.
• Had some oil from the oil filter removal drip onto the skid plate. Same as above, jack up driver's side to let the oil drip out.
• Do the reverse for installing the oil filter, after oiling the gasket. Tighten with the open end wrench, but do not over-tighten.

 

[emoody]

Maybe a ratcheting box wrench would serve you well. I wondered about those clearances as I looked up into the tight space left, after I pondered how i’d just covered up the front jack point I’d used to get the car onto jack stands. I’ve got a set of ratcheting box wrenches that should work out well.

 

[madison38]

On my first oil change I discovered that it would be much easier and cleaner to remove the skid plate rather than try to work around it and potentially get a build up of spilled oil on the inside of the plate. I also discovered that my bolt pitch was wrong. I was able to replace the provided bolts with the correct pitch and thankfully the chasis threads weren't damaged. I did clean them up with a tap just to be safe, but the bolts from my local fastener shop did the trick. I also decided to back up the plate with some spacers so that I'm torquing against the fastener, not the plate as it bridges the gap in the cross beam. I know @Jondz chose to remove his beam and use the plate itself as the cross beam. It gives him a little extra clearance and so far hasn't had any trouble. I've let JSport know about the hardware issue, I'm hopeful that they will get it sorted before sending out more units.

 

[lance35]

On my first oil change I discovered that it would be much easier and cleaner to remove the skid plate rather than try to work around it and potentially get a build up of spilled oil on the inside of the plate. I also discovered that my bolt pitch was wrong. I was able to replace the provided bolts with the correct pitch and thankfully the chasis threads weren't damaged. I did clean them up with a tap just to be safe, but the bolts from my local fastener shop did the trick. I also decided to back up the plate with some spacers so that I'm torquing against the fastener, not the plate as it bridges the gap in the cross beam. I know @Jondz chose to remove his beam and use the plate itself as the cross beam. It gives him a little extra clearance and so far hasn't had any trouble. I've let JSport know about the hardware issue, I'm hopeful that they will get it sorted before sending out more units.

Thanks, David for the details on your skid plate experience. Based on your installation and the clearances you noted, removing the plate for oil changes and the potential for spillage during the change is a good idea. Who knows what might happen during a hot summer drive in stop and go traffic and the possible build-up of heat and the accumulated oil on the plate. Your experience is one of the great features of PP owners joining the Forum, the shared knowledge and experiences is very valuable.

 

[vgreen]

Thanks for posting a detailed install - Answered a few questions I had about the process.

For anyone running one of these - any concern about buildup (salt/mud/sand etc) on the inner side?

With the salted roads in the winter here in the NE, I worry about salt buildup (and sand from beach driving) that would be hard to clean without complete removal, which could lead to further corrosion of the areas/parts covered by the plate.