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What is the purpose of the large slotted hole on the front of the skid plate?

 

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Received my skid plate order and proceeded with install, today. Unfortunately, the wrong set of hardware was included. In my case, front bolts (4X) were too short and rear bolts (2X) were the wrong thread pitch. At minimum, dry fit the bolts before proceeding. Otherwise, it should be an easy install and a sturdy skid plate.

Contacted JSport and they are sending out the correct set for the Passport.

 

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Wish I would have remembered reading this 5 months ago. Just fought with mine for an hour before giving up. Now wondering if mine came with the wrong hardware for the rear 2 as well. May have already screwed up the threads in the mounting locations too in the process as I couldn’t even get one of the factory bolts to go back in properly after I gave up. So frustrated.

The thread holes will be fine. I was worried about the same. The females threads should be harder than the bolts. Either contact JSport to sent the correct hardware or buy 10mm x 1.25 pitch thread x 35mm flange bolt. You may have issues with one or two of the front slot holes with alignment. Enlarge the front holes, if necessary. I bought fender washers for the front and rear bolts (appropriate size for each). PM me for more questions.

 

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I had to do an oil change before my road trip. I performed the oil change with the skid plate installed to see how it goes. The skid plate hinders the oil change. Decide if you wish to leave the skid plate in place or remove it for the oil change. Some notes about the oil change...

• A socket and ratchet will not fit in the slot for the oil drain bolt. You will need to use a box wrench, 12-point 17mm (?) will work better because of the limit range of motion for turning.
• I had a sheet of tin and made a curved half cylinder to direct the large flow of oil once the bolt is removed. Captured most of the oil, but still had some oil go onto the topside of the skid plate. This flowed forward to the V-bend of the skid plate. Jack up the driver's side and the excess oil will drip out on the passenger's side.
• Reinstalling the oil drain bolt with new crush washer, I normally use a torque wrench. However, you will have to use the box wrench and torque to "goodentight".
  
  
• I have the Honda cap wrench for the oil filter. Normally, I use a 3/8" ratchet or a torque wrench with the cap wrench. There is insufficient clearance for a ratchet and had to use a 14mm open-end wrench.
• Had some oil from the oil filter removal drip onto the skid plate. Same as above, jack up driver's side to let the oil drip out.
• Do the reverse for installing the oil filter, after oiling the gasket. Tighten with the open end wrench, but do not over-tighten.

 

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For anyone running one of these - any concern about buildup (salt/mud/sand etc) on the inner side?

I just returned from a 7,400 mile road trip. Traversed 8 miles of gravel dirt road and ventured onto the Bonneville Salt Flats. There were no vehicles in front of me kicking up debris, either. I just removed the skid plate for cleaning and servicing the Passport. There was very little debris on the top side of the skid plate, aside from a couple of big grasshoppers. No evidence of salt from Bonneville on the skid plate. There is a gap between the skid plate and chassis that you access to flush. The skid plate is aluminum... no worries with corrosion.

Most of the mud, dirt and salt that is kicked up by your own wheels end up in the wheel wells and the plastic panels on the lower parts of the door and beneath. I did find salt from Bonneville accumulated on the plastic panels beneath the door (especially the jack point openings). You'll want to give that entire area a good flushing with NE winter salt.