Here it is, no Drilling or Blasting.
The 2 meter transceiver is an Icom 229H from way back! Blow by blow description follows. That thingy in the cup holder is a "Stubby" Cup Holder Mount from Ram Mounts.
As it arrives to your home it might not quite do the job. There are rubber fins around the circumference. If the weight of your rig is on the heavy side, do the following. Break out a roll of black electrical tape. What ham operator doesn't have any in the junk box? Wrap the bottom of the "Stubby" first! Bend the fins tight against the body of the "Stubby". Use just enough wraps so the "Stubby" fits snug into the bottom of the cup holder. The cup holder is tapered. The top wrap will have to be a little larger in diameter.
The above jpeg shows a double composite socket swivel & ratchet arm from Ram Mounts. This little do/dad will let the transceiver be aimed towards the driver and keep the weight of the transceiver centered above the "Stubby". Read less vibration.
Any mobile rig I've played with has a bracket to attach the rig to something. Ram Mounts also manufactures a "B" size diamond ball base. This completes the rig. Next is power.
Gotta have DC power! Philmore Lighter Socket Plug Adapter has binding posts and is rated for 10 amps. To date I haven't measured to voltage at the socket in the Passport. The tag on the covers states 12V/180 watts are available. Do the math and this might be good for 15 amps. On the other hand if the socket is good for battery voltage, 13.8 VDC; drop down to about 13 amps. My Icom 229H at 25 watts RF output draws 7.5 amps DC. Next up, the RF hose.
Somehow RF needs to start at the transceiver and arrive at the antenna. That hose in my case is manufactured by Diamond Antenna, product # C213SMA. Quite a nice hose at that. The jpeg above show the transceiver end. Left is a PL259 to SMA adapter. One side connects to the rig. Of course the other side connects to the SMA attached to the RG-316 coax. The RG-316 coax has the same diameter as 14 gauge THHN wire, read small. That little SMA connector let you pass the coax through tight little places as in the rear hatch of the Passport.
Ok, I had to crop the jpegs in order to make this post. That hinge is the left one facing the rear hatch. The left wire is 14 gauge THHN going to the bracket of the tailgate lifting device. RG-316 to the right.
The antenna mount I'm using should be grounded. The 14 gauge THHN has connections on both ends, soldered/crimped.
Not quite pretty, but works. The Diamond K550 mount is attached to the rear cross rail. The RF hose (coax) is 13.5 feet in length, plenty long enough. The mount is maybe 2 decades old, works. It comes with a rubber protector to go around a luggage rack. I've added a layer of electrical tape. The C213SMA ships with a protector cap to use when no antenna is connected.
Next step, the antenna. My two Diamond antennas have been cut to length and the VSWR was good enough for the old Chevy Blazer. Not so for the Passport. Almost 2-1/2 to 1 SWR, not good.
More work ahead..............
Stuck,
The 2 meter transceiver is an Icom 229H from way back! Blow by blow description follows. That thingy in the cup holder is a "Stubby" Cup Holder Mount from Ram Mounts.
As it arrives to your home it might not quite do the job. There are rubber fins around the circumference. If the weight of your rig is on the heavy side, do the following. Break out a roll of black electrical tape. What ham operator doesn't have any in the junk box? Wrap the bottom of the "Stubby" first! Bend the fins tight against the body of the "Stubby". Use just enough wraps so the "Stubby" fits snug into the bottom of the cup holder. The cup holder is tapered. The top wrap will have to be a little larger in diameter.
The above jpeg shows a double composite socket swivel & ratchet arm from Ram Mounts. This little do/dad will let the transceiver be aimed towards the driver and keep the weight of the transceiver centered above the "Stubby". Read less vibration.
Any mobile rig I've played with has a bracket to attach the rig to something. Ram Mounts also manufactures a "B" size diamond ball base. This completes the rig. Next is power.
Gotta have DC power! Philmore Lighter Socket Plug Adapter has binding posts and is rated for 10 amps. To date I haven't measured to voltage at the socket in the Passport. The tag on the covers states 12V/180 watts are available. Do the math and this might be good for 15 amps. On the other hand if the socket is good for battery voltage, 13.8 VDC; drop down to about 13 amps. My Icom 229H at 25 watts RF output draws 7.5 amps DC. Next up, the RF hose.
Somehow RF needs to start at the transceiver and arrive at the antenna. That hose in my case is manufactured by Diamond Antenna, product # C213SMA. Quite a nice hose at that. The jpeg above show the transceiver end. Left is a PL259 to SMA adapter. One side connects to the rig. Of course the other side connects to the SMA attached to the RG-316 coax. The RG-316 coax has the same diameter as 14 gauge THHN wire, read small. That little SMA connector let you pass the coax through tight little places as in the rear hatch of the Passport.
Ok, I had to crop the jpegs in order to make this post. That hinge is the left one facing the rear hatch. The left wire is 14 gauge THHN going to the bracket of the tailgate lifting device. RG-316 to the right.
The antenna mount I'm using should be grounded. The 14 gauge THHN has connections on both ends, soldered/crimped.
Not quite pretty, but works. The Diamond K550 mount is attached to the rear cross rail. The RF hose (coax) is 13.5 feet in length, plenty long enough. The mount is maybe 2 decades old, works. It comes with a rubber protector to go around a luggage rack. I've added a layer of electrical tape. The C213SMA ships with a protector cap to use when no antenna is connected.
Next step, the antenna. My two Diamond antennas have been cut to length and the VSWR was good enough for the old Chevy Blazer. Not so for the Passport. Almost 2-1/2 to 1 SWR, not good.
More work ahead..............
Stuck,